Die Kaap
Wednesday, February 4, Cape Town
My taxi is 10 minutes late and keeps looking at his mobile. Long line of cars in front of the departure hall. The rest is very efficient. Baggage drop-off, security, and passport control within 20 minutes. We are flying over Ghardaia, etc. I’ve driven there before… At the airport in Cape Town, people are very nice. A service employee ties my shoelaces because I’m carrying my suitcase. By the way, the hotel has smoking and non-smoking rooms; I can’t believe that still exists.
Thursday, February 5, Cape Town
My day off, so I often do too much. First a vist of St. George’s Church with Bishop Tutu’s stained glass (The remains of Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu are here).
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Next, Company’s Garden. The old VOC garden, right? Now a relaxed park. It’s quite warm, but I won’t complain. I visit the South African Museum; it’s a bit large with plenty of space. At Hotel Nelson Terrace, chic: I hear expats say: seeing less is more interesting than seeing more! Now those are good photography tips. A rejuvenate cocktail, no alcohol but ginger, among other things. Then down Long Street, a long street with many bars! After 8 it’s dangerous, so an early pasta with a beer. From the balcony of the hotel bar, I look out at the street with a beer. After 8, it’s off limits for whites; an ironic reversal of apartheid.
Friday, February 6, Robben Island
The Uber driver is from Zimbabwe again. They’re stealing the jobs after all! He takes me to the Waterfront. Robben Island is a half-hour boat ride away; lots of Dutch people, by the way. A former prisoner tells me about his time on the island. Unfortunately, it’s hard to understand at times. Impressive. Photo of Mandela’s cell.
He was isolated from the other prisoners because he was too persuasive… Photo of the small garden where his manuscript ‘Long Road to Freedom’ was buried.
On the way back, dolphins in front of the harbor and seals in the harbor.
Dinner at a Belgian restaurant on the waterfront, fine piece of meat and beer. A completely different atmosphere here, touristy and safe. Ubering back failed due to a bad connection, so a regular taxi it is.
Saturday, February 7, Cape Town
Leaving at 6 a.m. for a walk with my cousin Birgit in Kirstenbosch… It is nice and cool. Beautiful fynbos, typical Cape vegetation. Many white trail runners pass by. At the botanical garden, I’ve had enough. Birgit walks back to pick up the car. I can walk through the gardens at my leisure.
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After this, a walk along Bloubergstrand, occasionally wading through the ice-cold water. A beer on a terrace, vacation. I can also tick off the final drive through Bo Kaap, the colorful Coloured neighborhood.
The air conditioning isn’t working, so I keep myself busy with it in the evenings, but unfortunately, ultimately, without result.
Sunday, February 8, Hout Bay and Cape Town
Today my cousin is letting me have a leisurely breakfast. Heading towards Hout Bay at 10 o’clock. Beautiful route with views of the sea and the mountains. Coffee stop at a bakery where someone is playing the piano inside! Walking on a snow-white beach at Noordhoek beach. The water is quite cold.
Lunch, fish (hake) and chips in Houtbaai.
The old fish halls have now been transformed into stalls and beer stubes. At my hotel, I had Iskender kebab on a terrace at a Kurdish restaurant. For dessert, a beautiful sunset on the Groenmarkt. A lovely day.
Monday, February 9, Simon’s Town
Unfortunately, a rainy day. Just when I have to drive through Cape Town in my rental car. Still, it’s always a bit nerve-wracking: traffic and driving on the left. With some difficulty, I find the Buitengracht to leave the city via Hout Bay to Simon’s Town. I can keep driving because I already did the views yesterday in nice weather. While looking for the penguins (via a cemetery and parking lot), I strike up a conversation with Andrew, an Englishman of part Chinese descent. Interesting conversations, particularly about politics, conspiracy theorists, and the like. We also speak to Brazilians and Poles.
The African penguins are cute but a bit lazy, lying in the sun. Also saw some badgers, not shy at all. Simonstown is bothered by baboons, which are being shot at with paintball guns…
The town looks like a nice Victorian Cape Dutch town. Finishing off with wonton soup; that way it will be half past eight.
Tuesday, February 10, Cape, Langebaan
Off to the Cape of Good Hope today; somehow the landscape reminds me of the North Cape, even though it is much warmer. Still, a tough hike up. Meanwhile, I see baboons, ostriches, seals, and terns. At Cape Point to the lighthouse; the weather is changing quickly, wisps of fog fly past.
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On the way back, I see a sort of mushroom cloud near Kalk Bay. Driving is a lot more relaxed with Android Assist, which I’m using now, a bigger screen than on my mobile.
Lange baan to Langebaan, virtually no habitation for 100 km/h.
Mostly a two-lane road with shoulders. A bus pulls onto the shoulder in front of me so I can overtake; you are allowed to drive 120, after all. While I’m driving at that speed, I get overtaken again, so I end up on the shoulder too.
In Langebaan, I walk to the beach (guinea fowls everywhere) for a white beer and a delicious fish, cod, with a view of kitesurfers. Vacation! After a while, I see that it seems to be “slegs vir blankes” (for whites only). Except for the staff, that is.
Lots of European tourists, though.
Wednesday, February 11, Paternoster
The day starts with very light drizzle! But soon the sky is bright blue again. No breakfast on site, so take it easy and plan the rest of the journey. I’m not doing Clan Williams because that would involve too much traveling.
Today to West Coast NP. Beautiful park with many birds, especially wading birds because of the mudflats! Banded mongooses are also showing themselves.
I am still doing my good deed by saving a turtle from the road.
Furthermore, a dune landscape. A short drive to Paternoster, a quiet white village. On the way, I pull over to the shoulder for the traffic police. They flash their lights in approval. It remains strange because, especially near the town, there are pedestrians and cyclists on it (all colored). In the evening, a hake, fried fish. I get into a conversation with an Afrikaner couple from Strydburg who run a safari lodge (no owners); mostly wealthy American visitors who shoot all kinds of game, even rhinos. P.S. Almost forgot, in the park there is a VOC marker, a beacon from around 1750, claiming the land. That mentality.
Thursday, February 12, to Swellendam
Today will probably be the longest driving day, around 5 hours. Several times I get stuck behind abnormally long transport; it often moves very slowly. Maybe they are parts of wind turbines… Suddenly I am among the vineyards; I am driving southeast, so it will probably rain more here. A coffee break at Rietdakkie with a farm kitchen. Time for a chicken pie. On the way, I drive through Worcester; I think to myself, what a neat place, but then in the outskirts, the slums of the non-whites. Coffee stop in Robinson, and then, lo and behold, a rain shower. Apparently, it has been raining in Swellendam for 5 days already. It looks green. At the neighbors’ French restaurant, springbok, kudu, and ostrich combo. Springbok is my favorite. The black staff wear berets. Politically incorrect; it reminds me of Black Pete. Chic place, fully booked. Friday, February 13, Swellendam A nice relaxed day. A bit rainy in the morning, but it wasn’t too bad. Swellendam is a historic town with many white Cape Dutch buildings. First, I visited the prison and the Drostdy (from 1747), where the Landdrost lived.
It used to be an outpost of the Cape Colony, also paying attention to the history of slavery, heavy penalties for crimes. Walking past historical buildings to the Dutch Reformed Church.
Later, a quick stop at Wildebraam. A blackberry farm; I buy a hazelnut liqueur there (which I naturally have to throw away upon checking in!).
Walter, the German owner (looks like Roel), has made a reservation for me at De Vagebond. That means ostrich fillet. Delicious, it is better than yesterday. On the 400 meters back, I am approached by some beggars. That feels a bit uncomfortable.
Saturday, February 14, Route 62
Tip from Walter, so I stop in In Paradise, Suurbroek. An alternative coffee shop. Nice white village. They, the South Africans, have a thing for white; almost all cars are white too. Beautiful road through a gorge, Tradouw Pass. Unfortunately, many forests burned last year. Many campers (something for Linda?). Waterfalls due to the rain as well. To Diesel and Crème in Barrydale, many old gas station signs and pumps, etc. To my surprise, no smoking on the terrace.
Stop at Ronnie’s sex shop. Typical biker cafe with bras on the ceiling (it is not a shop).
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I am currently on Route 62 and the sun is shining (it is a sort of savanna here). After some searching (and luck), I find De Krans vineyard in Calitzdorp. A nice break with dry white wine and full-bodied ostrich sausage. The crowd is a mix of white and black. On the way to Oudtshoorn, I am greeted twice by groups of people of color. I probably look like a local farmer… Now all I’m in the mood for is apple pie with ice cream; no nagkap for me.
Sunday, February 15, Oudtshoorn-Plettenberg Bay
I take a historical walk through Oudtshoorn; it has many sandstone buildings from around 1900, the heyday of ostrich feathers. Nice suspension bridge from later years. It seems like a safe, relaxed little village.
Entrance to Oudtshoorn was a wide road; horse and cart could turn around there!
Visit to show ostrich farm; they rely mainly on the meat. Feathers are still supplied to the Moulin Rouge, though.
I get to stand on 5 ostrich eggs for a moment; one spontaneously breaks. It must have had a crack… I really do need to watch my weight.
Via a mountain pass to George, which has become a major industrial area. At Knijsna, simple houses stretch all the way to the N2. Further along, the coast is still beautiful. At Wilderness, bratwurst from an old German at the Sunday market. An alternative vibe. Continuing along the coast to Plettenberg, where I stay for two nights.
Dinner is another tasty fish dish, Kingklip.
Meanwhile, I read about heavy snowfall in the Netherlands; it feels a bit unreal.
Monday, February 16, Robberg, Plettenberg
The Robberg NP hike, but not as far as De Punt. A narrow walking path along steep cliffs. I see some divers, but when I hear the sound and smell the stench, they turn out to be Cape sea lions! Very warm, but I did leave late. I am a wimp, of course; a young German couple is dragging a toddler around, and she is pregnant! Very varied landscape.
I have a drink on the beach afterwards. The couple next to me turn out to be Dutch pensioners living in Spain. He was 53 when he retired…
In the evening, moussaka at the Mediterranean restaurant. I strike up a conversation with Klarissa, a charming African woman (white) with a second home here. She has been on a carnivore diet for 8 months now, so she only eats meat, no vegetables. Occasionally supplemented with cheese and wine. Something for my brother Roeland. She feels much healthier. She also looks much younger than she is. Furthermore, she has more rebellious views. She works at the University of Pretoria. In Denmark, she asks if it is dangerous; they say ‘wet cobblestones’. Which corridor is that, she wonders? It turns out the stones are indeed slippery!
Nice conversation. It will be well past 10.
Tuesday, February 17, Tsitsikama, Wilderness
To the suspension bridge of Tsitsikama Forest, still an hour’s drive, my easternmost point of the trip. It is very densely forested here. I see now that the black hitchhikers have money in their hands. Refueling for the second time; I give a 20 rand tip because he cleans the windows, but what to do with his helper?
At the toll booth on the way back, the police check my driver’s license and car…
It also starts to rain for a bit. As a result, it is a bit muggy. In Wilderness, it turns out the room has no air conditioning. Possibly not a problem, but I did book it that way; it can be fixed tomorrow. Wednesday, February 18, Wilderness The previous German guests left behind a small video camera, the cleaning lady discovers… I practice the Xhosa click sound with the cleaning lady. She likes to talk; apparently, not many tourists do that. She lives in George, 25 km away. Otherwise, a quiet day. Getting some fresh air on the beach, completely empty, little litter, cold water. Lots of retired Europeans. A lifeguard on a quad rides up to me: ‘Are you Philip?’ Fortunately not, I think. The staff in the restaurants is often a mix of young white girls and black people.
Thursday, February 19, Wilderness and trail runners
I manage to start the Half Colored Kingfisher Trail hike, 8 kilometers, reasonably on time, a quarter to 7. Lovely temperature, beautiful walk through a valley carved out by a small stream. Well-maintained trails, not too difficult. It takes me 4 hours, though it could be done in 3. Many Afrikaners before 10; I am also often addressed in Afrikaans—after all, I have a ‘boerekop’ (country bumpkin)! After 10, more Europeans. A blue duiker (a type of roe deer) is grazing right along the path.
I hear more birds than I see, but it is beautiful nonetheless. Now brunch, lunch, and lots of water. Recovering for the rest of the day! When I ask the cleaning lady if I look like an Afrikaner, she says yes and laughs.
Friday, February 20, Wilderness hides
During my breakfast, I see police officers (?) from the Wilderness defense force walking around. I give the cleaning lady another tip; she looks very happy. The Malachite hide is very nice, including a pied kingfisher with a small fish, little egret, eared grebe, bird of prey, African darter (a type of cormorant). I also see a Southern fiscal that has caught a small snake; beautiful.
Hallucinatory experience on the N2. Several Black people cross at George on the highway where the speed limit is 120 km/h… though it is a well-maintained road, as is usually the case here. Lunch at Wimpy’s (Grootbrak) for the first time. They have Africano and no Americano. The weather is a bit muggy, but it isn’t raining yet. In the evening, a Chinese tourist in the house where I am staying is very interested in my old photos of China; communicating via Google Translate, fun. New record for pillows, by the way: 7!
Saturday, February 21, Mossel Bay
Today a visit to Points of Human Origins, located in a gated community with a 3 km coastline, featuring a golf course by the sea. Extensive checks, including my driver’s license and rental car. When I ask a golfer if it isn’t difficult, the golfer says, “You’ve got to have enough balls!” There are several caves; we are able to visit 13b. Human artifacts dating back up to 160,000 years have been found there. I don’t really hear anything new, but it is a special place to visit.
Mossel Bay is a peculiar place, with difficult access to the beach and harbor. Because of this, I am visiting the Dias Museum with a replica of his ship. He was the first European here, after all. Sunday, February 22, Hermanus Today to Hermanus, a 3 1/2 hour drive. Breakfast stop at Ou Meul Riversdal, a nice coffee shop. Many white visitors, except for one black boy. Blazing sun. Fortunately, I no longer hear “boss” (like in the old days) but “sir.” Next stop in Riviersonderend; it feels very hot, but it is 30 degrees after all, though I can’t complain with my coffee shake. Fortunately, Hermanus is max. 24 degrees. Just before Hermanus, a short shower; the landscape changes from hills with grassland to vineyards and burnt bushes. From my guesthouse, I walk along a beautiful path to the harbor. In the seafood restaurant, there is a group of noisy black American women, but the grilled cod was tasty. A short taxi ride back for 60 rand, 3 euros.
Monday, February 23, Hermanus relax
A short walk along the nature trail to the center of Hermanus. I manage to photograph the beautiful bird with the long tail. Many retirees from the Netherlands and especially Germany. At breakfast, the Germans explained to me that parents, including fathers, get 3 months of parental leave, and then presumably go on vacation! That explains all the couples with babies. In a coffee shop, I hear a young Dutch couple. They live abroad permanently, mainly in Asia, and work from home. Now 4 months in Africa, brilliant. Otherwise taking it easy; the sun is merciless today. Tuesday, February 24, Fernkloof and Hermanus Beautiful walk in Fernkloof park. Unintentionally, I end up at the Lemoenkop. Along the way, fynbos with many flowers and birds. I see the sunbird and the Cape grassbird. Two cheerful older Hermanus residents with whom I have a bit of a chat. It has a Surinamese feel to it. Afterwards at Burgundy, table for one. “No problem, I will join you,” says the witty waitress. People are starting to recognize me too, so I have to leave! I did eat ostrich fillet there later, though. From the terrace, I have a view of patrolling HPP officers (Hermanus Public Protection, a kind of private security service). Beautiful walking path at Kransrock along the coast with strange rock formations.
Wednesday, February 25, Hermanus, Bettys Bay, Stellenbosch Woke up at 6, so an early walk along the coast. Beautiful sunrise, wonderfully crisp weather. Say goodbye to Johan and his wife. First stop Kleinmond, which also has a somewhat more difficult walking path along the coast. On the other side of the main road are the Coloured slums. In Bettys Bay, a quick look at the penguins; they do mostly stand still in the middle of the day. It is also a barren plain with a scorching sun. The landscape along the way, with the bare mountains, is surprisingly green, thanks to the rain, I assume. In Stellenbosch, I go looking for a T-shirt with Afrikaans text; hopeless. After an hour, I give up. That is why there is internet. I do see all kinds of shops and the mall! I am surprised by the busy traffic, but it turns out there is a street soiree (wine tasting and such), so some streets are closed off. Long line of students, so cheap drinks? (that turns out to be correct, 1 euro per glass) Return the car and it’s over. I am curious how my painted walls turned out… just an 11 and a half hour flight back, the last 2 hours over Europe.
Thursday, February 26, Amsterdam
Postscript: It was a relaxed holiday, with reasonable travel distances and perfect weather. As is well known, South Africa is a country of great contrasts, but unfortunately, that doesn’t seem to be diminishing. Naturally, I am traveling mainly in the wealthy, privileged part. There are certain places you shouldn’t go to, or at least not after sunset; that hasn’t really changed. Otherwise, traveling is very easy. I could pay everywhere with my mobile phone; you only need to have 20 rand bills in your pocket for the car guards. Regarding plugs, adapters are handy, but there are often European sockets available as well. For booking overnight stays, I used the Lekkeslaap app alongside Booking.com.
Route followed: 